Judy Wu‘s shows have become a highlight of London Fashion Week, and I always look forward to seeing what she’ll do next. Judy continues to celebrate strong women, and her AW16 collection was inspired by the female pioneers of aviation, Amelia Earheart and Amy Johnson; the latter being the first female pilot to fly alone from Britain to Australia. Since she launched her label in 2013, Judy has produced wonderful coats and the outerwear in this collection was no exception. The jackets, capes and coats in muted colours had a classic military feel, whilst maintaining womanly softness.
Interlaced with the flight theme, were subtle references to the the powerful sexuality of the dominatrix. Wu steered away from cliched rubber masks and whips; instead bondage was expressed with utilitarian straps, PVC bustiers and harnessing details across the shoulders. Sexual allusions were balanced with billowing fabrics which spoke of soaring through the air.
Judy’s muse is a courageous woman, who takes on the world without ever losing her innate sense of femininity. AW16 has the feel of someone who not only conquers the elements, but brings order to chaos and isn’t afraid to make demands. In amongst the design concepts were very wearable clothes. The aforementioned outerwear will no doubt be a big hit with buyers, but I had my eye on the printed dresses. For me, the stand out piece was a black dress with a splash of orange across the asymmetric shoulder.
When I watch shows I often appreciate the craftsmanship and beauty of the creations that drift down the runway. However, this doesn’t always translate into finding the pieces desirable. Judy Wu makes clothes that I not only want to have on my back, but I can imagine myself wearing for years to come.