There are some designers who’ve been on my radar from the beginning of their careers. I’ve been a fan of Judy Wu since I saw her first line, hanging in the showroom of a PR firm I was working with back in 2013. Since then, Judy has gone from strength to strength with each collection becoming more assured than the last. Named after the Greek goddess Gaia, Wu’s SS16 offering was an ode to feminine strength and Mother Earth herself. Sports luxe details were coalesced with undulating pleats and vibrant prints. The faux sweatshirts tied around the waist added to the sense of movement and physical fitness. There were flashes of rose gold and silver that injected nonchalant glitz and contrasting texture. Wu interrogated easy going fluidity, which is a new direction as much of her previous work […]
I’ve always favoured chunky heels over spiky stilettos. I prefer a vintage inspired, Mary Poppins vibe, which Joanne Stoker executes with skilful aplomb. Her SS16 collection passed the baton from her previous work, developing and perfecting Stoker’s charming, nouveau-retro look. Named 1981, it celebrated the strength and chutzpah of the 80’s power woman. Divided into lifestyle sections of work, holiday, pleasure and dancing, there was something for everyone. In amongst the shoes were sinewy ‘Voga’ dancers, throwing some classic 80’s shapes. ‘Voga’ is the next big thing in fitness – a happy marriage between dance and yoga. As well chunky lace-ups and cute sandals, the collection included orthopedically sound flats in an array of juicy colours. But the stars of the show were the Mary Janes with heels at the perfect height, the straps delicately placed under the ankle and the toes rounded […]
I often take photos at London fashion week from a rather curious angle, I’ll find myself crouching on the floor or jostling with photographers for a decent view. At the Roksanda SS16 show, I was in the gallery looking down. I was worried that I wouldn’t get the shots I needed, however my high vantage point allowed me to see the clothes in flowing motion, while they swirled around the long limbs of the models. Roksanda Ilincic’s signature look is all about bold colours and contemporary textures housed within elegant, feminine tailoring. This season was no exception, although Ilincic took a lighter, less blocky approach to spring/summer. My favourite pieces were the diaphanous slip dresses adorned with fluffy, oversized shoulder embellishments that felt fresh and easy. The sculptural flared sleeves added volume and drama […]
During fashion week, I often think about the logistics and cost of running a successful label. It’s not enough just to produce beautiful clothes; designers have to balance fashion-forward ingenuity with commercial imperative. Georgia Hardinge’s SS16 collection struck the sweet spot between wearability and creativity. I’ve been a fan of Georgia’s sleek aesthetic for a long time, and her latest offering is the strongest so far. Inspired by signs of the zodiac, the collection featured laser cut motifs of Scorpio, Cancer and Gemini, as well as Hardinge’s trademark sculptural details. The pleats deserve their own mention, creating sweeping romanticism whilst maintaining the clean lines synonymous with Georgia’s work. The angelic maxi-dresses in ivory would be a beautiful choice for the modern bride. I have no doubt that Georgia Hardinge’s brand is on the upward trajectory that her talent deserves.
Fashion is often arch, knowing and cynical. This results in edgey collections with complex, multi layered meaning and references. This is all fine and good, but sometimes it’s pleasant to take a break and enjoy fashion that’s simply beautiful. Joseph Font’s SS16 offering for Delpozo was dripping in old school haute couture values, with a generous splash of fairy-tale whimsy. The collection was inspired Emilie Flöge, Viennese bohemian, fashion designer and muse to Gustav Klimpt. The clothes were shamelessly pretty and feminine. The collection offered little in the way of casual, pragmatic pieces. But what it lacked in utilitarian ease was made up for in dreamy romanticism.
London fashion week kicks off in a couple of days in its new Soho home – the car park on Brewer Street to be precise. Although I like the absurd juxtaposition of humdrum concrete playing host to the fashion circus, I’m concerned Soho will jam to a halt. I presume there’ll be some traffic contingency plan set in motion to cope with the massive influx. If not the place will be chaos. Setting aside my prosaic traffic worries and looking accross the pond to New York, I’m rather taken with the latest collection by Rodarte. Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the sisters behind the brand, presented their version of unabashed romanticism for SS16, citing Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Emily Dickinson and Leonard Cohen as their inspiration. Added to the blend was 70s glam rock and a generous dose of Stevie Nicks. […]
The couture shows are in full swing, one of the most beautiful collections was Raf Simons’ offering for Christian Dior. Inspired by ‘The Garden of Earthly Delights’ by Hieronymus Bosch, the dresses had a dreamy, ethereal quality, counter balanced by the heavy coats with one contrasting sleeve. One might ask why are the couture shows relevant in such austere times? The answer is to most people, they’re not. These are clothes destined for the backs of the super rich and famous. Design houses earn little profit from haute couture, but they do showcase the most beautiful, rarified ideas of the designer. The houses that produce couture are the behemoth, venerable labels such as Chanel, Dior, Armani Privé, Atelier Versace, and a handful of others. I love the couture collections because they’re relatively unencumbered by commercial imperative. They are […]
This week I had the pleasure of visiting shoe designer, Lucy Choi, in her West London studio. Lucy couldn’t be lovelier and her studio is jam packed with gorgeous shoes. Needless to say, I was like a kid in a candy store. Lucy comes from a line of shoe royalty, her uncle is Jimmy Choo and her sister, Sandra Choi, is the Creative Director of J. Choo Limited. Lucy studied business at university and spent the first 8 years of her career working in the city, before starting out in the shoe industry. She went on to be the managing director of French Sole before setting up her own brand. In three short years her label has grown exponentially, stocking in Net-a-Porter, matchesfashion.com, Harvey Nichols, Fenwick of Bond Street, to name but a few. What I love […]
I’m a little late to the party in writing about the Burberry A/W15 show, but I’ve been snowed under with work and only now can I raise my head above the chaos. Christopher Bailey’s last few collections have payed homage a past that one wouldn’t usually associate with the high end polish synonymous with Burberry Prorsum. The collection was entitled Patchwork, Pattern and Prints and payed homage to a freewheeling, late 60’s early 70’s bohemian attitude. These are clothes for the artistically inclined, although I wonder how many true bohemians can afford the sky-scraping prices of Burberry. The star pieces were the fringe capes and the red, ankle length patchwork dress . No doubt the high street will run pick up the ball – this look is easily replicated in a more wallet friendly format. I’m a […]
When I was a little girl I loved to dress up in a pink tutu and host tea parties for my collection of dolls. I also liked to play rough and tumble games with the boys in my class at school. To this day I enjoy a lot of things that are considered classically feminine like pretty vintage dresses and lipstick. However there’s a boyish side of me that has me swearing like a sailor and offering to arm wrestle anyone who’s willing. I like to indulge my girly side with dresses and skirts, but I draw the line at anything too frilly and frou-frou. I look for designers who can cater for my boy-meets girl aesthetic. I was excited to meet Min Wu in the designer showrooms at London Fashion Week. Min graduated from […]