Cristina Sabaiduc: Practical Innovation

I was sad and surprised to read that Jonathan Saunders’ eponymous label is shutting down. From the outside, it appeared that Saunders’ was going from strength to strength. He’d secured backing from financier Eiesha Bharti Pasricha and his last show at London Fashion Week was confident, well received and expensive to stage. The closure of Saunders’ label confirms how precariousness of fashion industry. Despite the challenges of starting a luxury brand, there are still innovative, emerging brands setting up shop. I’ve recently got to know Cristina Sabaiduc, a new designer who originally hails from Romania. It’s always exciting to get involved with a label in the early days. I think Cristina has a bright future, with luxurious, statement making clothes that are firmly grounded in practicality. Cristina started her career by knitting ball gowns from scraps of fabric and she explained how […]

Central Saint Martins Graduate Show

It’s impossible to discuss the Central Saint Martins graduate show without referencing the late Louise Wilson, who was the course director of the MA in fashion from 1992 to 2014. She passed away last May. Her alumnus includes Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Peter Jensen, Richard Nicoll, Sophia Kokosalaki, to name but a few. Her influence over the London fashion scene is palpable – she fostered fearless creativity and dedication to originality. Matty Bovan, one of the winners of this year’s L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, opened the show with jaw dropping knitwear. I fell a little in love with Seyoung Hong’s simple robes of dusky lilac, gray and khaki – one of the more commercial collections. Hayley Grundmann’s massive knitted creations were woven out of foam and plastic, yet they had a soft undulating feel about […]

Winter Pastels

Pastels colours have been a  big deal for winter; Carven, Simone Rocha, Celine and Jonathan Saunders (to name but a few) delved into the delights of saccharine shades for A/W13. I’ve always been a fan of sugared almond colours, but in winter I think they’re a refreshing sartorial palate cleanser that shine out against the sea of drab black and grey. The key to keeping pastel shades chic and grownup is to combine them with sophisticated, muted colours and camel works a treat. I’ve layered my old coat from French Connection (similar here) over a 80’s vintage lilac leather bomber jacket and my pink 60’s vintage baby pink fringed dress. A more prudent dresser would stick with a flattering black shoe, but I can’t leave well enough alone so I’ve added my metallic […]

Autumn In the pink: Buy Now, Wear Now.

For people who work in fashion, there’s often a feeling of seasonal displacement. For months now I’ve been scrupulously studying the A/W13 collections, not to mention the 2014 Resort trends. Thinking so far ahead can leave one in a strange style limbo; when you’re pre-occupied with what’s coming you tend to miss what’s going on in the moment (this statement is true to many of life’s situations, but for now I’ll stick to fashion). Fall 2013 Trend: Think Pink: Fashion Weeks around the globe featuring Fall trends have come to a close and, sa… http://t.co/kYtk5d0tC1 — CHAOS Magazine (@chaosmag) July 17, 2013   The good news is that fashion is an ever-changing creature, and these days seasonally effected confusion is less of a problem. The pre and resort collections have blurred the boundaries […]

Lady Leather: this autumn’s new take on subversive chic

A mood of refined elegance is prevailing this autumn; on the runways ladylike models, reminiscent of Hitchcock muses, sashayed their way down the catwalk.  The sound of  slim heels click-clicking and the swish-swoosh of full skirts were the soundtrack of the season.  Necklines are set to be modestly high, waists are nipped in and well-manicured hands are delicately sheathed in dainty gloves.  It’s a classically beautiful look that works for lots of women, however, this time round the Hitchcock heroine has a sting in her tail. The most elegant clothes of the season are produced in a subversive material – leather.  Not just your standard black either –fall’s incarnation of Tippi Hedren comes in a bounty of colours, from ruby red and emerald teal at Prada to delicate grey-lilac at Proenza Schouler.  Gucci […]