Judy Wu SS17: Curve

One of the things I love about London Fashion Week, is having the chance take a close look at the clothes and talk to designers about their work. Judy Wu’s latest collection was a beautiful combination of sports-luxe and exaggerated femininity. Entitled ‘Curve’, Judy took inspiration from architecture that blends structure with generous arcs and contours, mimicking the female body. The pieces were beautifully constructed, with classic vintage-like tailoring, complete with nipped in waists and boxy, elegant jackets. I loved the skirts layered with petal-like layers of chiffon, that gently fluttered in the breeze. Judy’s zingy colours served as a palette cleanser, which will be most welcome come spring time. Technically, a fashion journalist should analyse a collection with cold impartiality, dissecting the designer’s work without personal bias. When I’ve written for other publications, I’ve tried to apply equitable journalistic integrity. However, when writing on my […]

Judy Wu: Flying High

Judy Wu‘s shows have become a highlight of London Fashion Week, and I always look forward to seeing what she’ll do next. Judy continues to celebrate strong women, and her AW16 collection was inspired by the female pioneers of aviation, Amelia Earheart and Amy Johnson; the latter being the first female pilot to fly alone from Britain to Australia. Since she launched her label in 2013, Judy has produced wonderful coats and the outerwear in this collection was no exception. The jackets, capes and coats in muted colours had a classic military feel, whilst maintaining womanly softness. Interlaced with the flight theme, were subtle references to the the powerful sexuality of the dominatrix. Wu steered away from cliched rubber masks and whips; instead bondage was expressed with utilitarian straps, PVC bustiers and harnessing details across the shoulders. Sexual allusions were balanced with billowing fabrics […]

Spring Jellyfish

I’m becoming impatient for spring, despite the cold reality that winter has at least another six weeks to go. In years gone by, I’d start to dress for the new season when there was February snow on the ground. I’d be freezing but I’d put up with it for the sake of being ahead of the game. Looking back realise what a ridiculous fashion victim I was. However, this pretty pastel jacket by Judy Wu could be layered over a skinny-ribbed knit and a pair of jeans for a pre-season look. Judy is brilliant at taking a classic piece and adding an interesting feature to elevate the look. I love the undulating coral detail across the shoulder, it reminds me of the an etherial jellyfish, drifting through the ocean. I’ve styled the jacket with a camisole by Whistles (similar here), a […]

Soul Songs

In recent weeks I’ve been listening to a lot of David Bowie; I know I’m not the only one. I’ve been thinking about why the deaths of musicians cause such profound waves in the public consciousness, after all, it seems strange to grieve for someone you’ve never known. I get hooked on a song and play it over and over again, because the particular piece of music strikes an emotional chord. By the time I’ve grown tired of it, I’ll have finished working out whatever has been knocking around my head. I’m not alone in this, sitting in a darkened room and listening to heart break music is deeply therapeutic. Be it Mozart’s Lacrimosa, Don’t Think Twice it’s Alright by Bob Dylan, Adele’s Someone Like You or Dolly Parton’s rendition of I Will Always Love You (far superior to […]

Judy Wu SS16: Ode to the Power Woman

There are some designers who’ve been on my radar from the beginning of their careers. I’ve been a fan of Judy Wu since I saw her first line, hanging in the showroom of a PR firm I was working with back in 2013. Since then, Judy has gone from strength to strength with each collection becoming more assured than the last. Named after the Greek goddess Gaia, Wu’s SS16 offering was an ode to feminine strength and Mother Earth herself. Sports luxe details were coalesced with undulating pleats and vibrant prints. The faux sweatshirts tied around the waist added to the sense of movement and physical fitness. There were flashes of rose gold and silver that injected nonchalant glitz and contrasting texture. Wu interrogated easy going fluidity, which is a new direction as much of her previous work […]

Judy Wu: The Story Teller

I often wonder if I’ll ever grow out of my love for vintage clothes, after all, unearthing a second hand gem is a time and labour intensive endeavour. I used to spend hours riffling through the rails and bargain bins in Camden Market. I dug up many treasures, including an ostrich feather ball gown worthy of Ginger Rogers for £35. Unfortunately that particular masterpiece only lasted a couple of outings before it fell apart, but for a glorious moment, I swanned around like a 1930’s movie star. Those happy free days in Camden are long gone, but I still can’t shake my vintage obsession. When I buy clothes, I love to imagine the story behind them. My favourite designers have narrative woven into the fabric of their collections. The aesthetic may be modern and […]

Judy Wu AW15 – Contemporary heirlooms

During London Fashion Week I came down with a stinking cold and I ducked out of a couple of shows. I was gutted to miss the lovely Judy Wu’s AW15 collection. Judy’s label is young, debuting in 2013, but she hit the ground running with killer outerwear and bold use of embellishment and colour. This season is inspired by Judy’s grandmother and the traditions of Chinese culture. Growing up in Shanghai, Judy’s own childhood was a stark contrast to her grandmother’s. Her current collection is an homage to the nostalgic customs of the past, juxtaposed with the looming modernity of Shanghai’s skyscrapers. I love that Judy has taken inspiration from her family; when I get dressed I’m often reminded of my own, very dapper, grandparents. Nanny was a great seamstress and made beautiful gowns, Granddad never left the house without a […]

Classic with a Twist

There are certain expressions in fashion that make my teeth itch but they are undeniably apt. ‘Classic with a twist’ is an phrase I’ve heard thousands of times over the years – it describes the chic staples of a wardrobe with some interesting detail that sets them apart. This trench from Judy Wu’s SS15 has all the properties of classic with a twist – but the twist is more intriguing than most. Judy’s SS15 collection was inspired by the Botanical Gardens of Rio and this coat’s details are a direct reference to the furrowed bark of palm trees. Desipite its exotic origins, the warm tobacco hue is perfect all year round in London and the classic shape gives an interesting look serious staying power. In four short seasons, Judy’s collections have grown in confidence and prowess. I’m excited to see what’s next […]

Judy Wu SS15: Natural Magic

There are some emerging labels who hit the ground running – Central Saint Martins graduate Judy Wu started strong and gets better every season. Her inaugural A/W13 collection featured some seriously good oversized coats that immediately caught my eye. I caught up with Judy at the Wolf and Badger presentation at London Fashion Week and had a close look at her signature intricate beading and petal-like-folds of fabric. Her SS15 collection is based on a trip to Rio de Janeiro’s lush Botanical Gardens where Wu took inspiration from the exotic flora and otherworldly beauty of the place. A palm tree motif runs through the collection in the form of digital prints, vibrant colours, beaded and fringe embellishments. My favourite looks are the delicate green chiffon dress and the sumptuous tobacco coloured mac with palm bark details on the […]